• Announcements

    • WhiteWolf

      Moving Site   11/22/2017

      If you want to keep this site up I need your help total cost to move this site to Godaddy will be $300.00 this will also include 2 years hosting then the total a year is less than $100.00 verses $937.00 a year come on guys to keep this site going whats it worth to you Carr has transferred the Domain name to me so it will be our site I can swing $100.00 a year can you swing helping with the transfer cost? if not I will close this site at the end of dec But we need to act by the end of this month 8 days to raise $300.00 Your call but don't come bitching to me cause we are shutting down Paypal  thechopperunderground@cox.net WhiteWolf

Blackjack

Members Plus
  • Content count

    2,876
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Blackjack

  • Rank
    Two Wheel Terror

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.thefont.info
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bristol, UK

Recent Profile Visitors

1,169 profile views
  1. Like I said, I've been busy.... :-)
  2. It might be six and a half years later (I've been busy...) but here's a video of that V-Max. Guy sold it on last summer, still looks much the same.
  3. If it's going to be kick only, then you don't need a solenoid.
  4. A lot of that depends on what the MOT guy sees the rules as meaning.... I've never had a problem with a side mount on the right of the bike, apart from battering my shin to shreds on it. Speedo needs to be visible from the rider's position. Switch position is again a bit of a matter of interpretation, but lights ON/OFF and IGN by the seat is fairly usual practice. I've been using some Chinese scooter switch off of E-bay that's pretty compact and has lights ON/OFF Horn and indicator switches. Wiring the lights ON/OFF to trip a changeover relay, the horn button to work the horn and just ignoring the indicator switch. They're about £3.....
  5. Well if you find your motivation under the sofa, it's not rocket science, but don't buy cheap used stuff. GS550's are slightly tricky because the stock charging circuit involves the light switch like some sort of 30's throwback, but it's un-necessary bollocks. GS550 is going to mean it's pre 1st august1986 I think? In that case it doesn't need indicators, but will need at least one brake light (front or rear) a taillight and a head light, it doesn't need a front side light but does need a speedo light and a H/lamp main beam warning light for an MOT and that's all if it's going to be kick only. If you look on E-Bay.co.uk there's a company called Lampton's Bikes (or there was) doing a reg/rec for 15quid and that came with a wiring diagram. Points are a piece of piss to wire, electronic marginally more difficult. There's a diagram of the rest of it attached. Or put it in a van and bring it to Bristol along with some money.... :-) Diagram is copyright to me and I reserve all rights to same.
  6. There isn't any "extra space". The tire goes in the middle, the rear sprocket has to line up with the front one. What's the wheel off of? And a CB what? They made a few....
  7. You're doing it wrong. The bar is usually an offset "T", not just welded straight to the clamp. Like this...
  8. Not a huge deal,but it's in 100% Biker (UK mag) thins month. Not a huge deal cause it was a project build for them, and I wrote the article...
  9. Wow... Time passes, shit happens. But lookee here... All done.
  10. Yeah, well you want to go careful with that. Spring rate needs to rise as the inverse square f the lever ratio. Put the shock bottom eye 1/2 way along the arm, you need 4 times the spring rate. and half the travel... Put it 1/4 of the way alng, you nee 16 times the spring rate which is getting up into the realms 3/4 of a ton per inch. And you need a shcok with 1/4 the travel you want at the rear wheel.... Rising rate jap stuff often has rates in excess of 1000 lb/in, and I see dirtfloor fab is using 2 of them...
  11. Got a little more done... Fitted a new set of sprockets to it, I used stainless Allen bolts to hold the rear one one, most times you can do this by using Ny-loc nuts inside the carrier (as long as you have a carrier!). The nuts normally won't quite fit past the lip on the casting (left hand one) but file one face down and they will (right hand one), looks cleaner, won't come undone. I had the tyre taken off the rim, used paint stripper to bare metal it, and then put the tyre back on, left it deflated, and masked it up, before I painted the wheel. Which is how you get the tyre back on without scratching the paint... Those Allen bolts holding the rear disc on are 10mm x 1.25mm thread and cost about £3 ($5) a piece at retail. With the wheel in, and the a start made on the the forks, the gold bits probably start to make more sense. That's where it is now.
  12. Well, OK... But mostly because I've made shit that I could have bought.
  13. Dug the gear change oil seal out with a seal pick, which saved stripping the clutch out and pulling the gear cange shaft. I got some skateboard truck rubbers that were the same OD as the fucked up factory rubber mounts for the motor and used those with some stainless tube to substiitute for the original shit. That done, I painted the motor with some rattle can engine enamel, and then let it dry foor a good few days. Once the paint was fully hardened, I sorted out some motor mounting hardware, laid the motor on its side and fitted the frame over it. Shoved the fasteners and mounts on and it's starting to look like a motorcycle again... In the end, I did paint the yokes gold, but I had some help with that from Emily. I think they'll look OK. I'm on the wheels now trying to make them look like they belong on the bike.
  14. Go read this... http://www.thefont.info/tubesize/tubesize.htm
  15. If you get a kit,assemble the axle plates onto the wheel and check that they're level with each other, you ought to be able to tack them straight to the end of the swing arm. That's located them the right distance apart, around 4" back for a bit of stretch, and with the correct offset from the centre line. IMPORTANTLY, a lot of bikes are wider on the chain side and the wheel often is not in the middle of the axle plates. Check this shit BEFORE you start fucking around with it, so you know where the factory had the wheel. Then cut the seat rails off and tie the top of the axle plates to the frame. Clean up the lower area and tie the bottom of the axle plates to the frame. Lose the swing arm. Add some crosstubes. Done. So, why would you want to fuck around cutting a hardtail up and making a lot of ass ache for yourself?