• Announcements

    • WhiteWolf

      Donation Info   11/12/2017

      If we can make it thru to the end of March we will be good till then PayPal thechopperunderground@cox.net Thanks WhiteWolf


Members Plus
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Tanshanomi

  • Rank
    Parts chaser

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kansas City, MO

Recent Profile Visitors

322 profile views
  1. The local Community College district has a welding certification program: Four hours a night, Monday through Thursday, for two semesters. I might enroll in the fall.
  2. Union apprenticeship or trade school? Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk HD
  3. As a hobbyist welder, I have either avoided doing any structural welding on my bikes, or when I have, I've designed the joint to have a secondary mechanical attachment to prevent a catastrophic failure if the weld is substandard. So, what training is necessary to be a reliably satisfactory welder, how does one get it, and how do you know when you're achieved a responsible level of expertise to tackle major stuff like building a frame? There's got to be something appropriate between going back to trade school for a welding certification, and just watching YouTube videos and trying to teach yourself.
  4. USAWeld has 55CF/1800 PSI welding bottles for $100 outright, including shipping: http://www.usaweld.com/Gas-Bottle-Refurbished-p/99900.htm Considering that I've seen refurb 40CF bottles going for $150 empty, is this a good deal? I don't want to go with huge bottles because I'm looking to mount two on a two-welder cart: one pure argon bottle for TIG and MIG welding loonynum, the other one Argon/CO2 for MIG on mild steel. The web page does a pretty good job of warning you about not being able to fill it. It's an odd size and I have not looked into whether I have a local vendor who does fills instead of just exchanges. Is that the reason these are so cheap? [Related question: does anybody know who in the Kansas City area fills bottles?]
  5. I wasn't sure whether to start a new thread or resurrect an old one, since there are already two different old threads on here about this unit, but Harbor Freight has discontinued their "High Frequency TIG with Digital Readout" (Model 98233). While it no longer shows up on their website, individual stores are closing them out for 30% off — $349. From various reviews online, it's a fairly decent unit for a mainland China build, and a pretty good deal at that price. It's definitely on the high end for HF; all their current TIG units are scratch (or "lift") start. The only real criticism I have read of this is that it does not come equipped for a variable foot pedal, it just has an on/off button on the handle. I picked up the last boxed one my local store had. I have never done TIG and didn't want to invest a bunch of cash before I got a chance to play around with one. I had been looking at a similar Everlast unit, but this was about 2/3rd the price. Unfortunately, this one will be sitting in the box for a little while, because this is finally the excuse I need to run 220V to my garage.
  6. There's an old thread on here about the HF inverter TIG. The images seem to have gone bye-bye and the author hasn't posted for 2-1/2 years, but it is still worth reading. http://www.thechopperunderground.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=49166
  7. Since the non-toxic, environmental friendly option was too wimpy, I went and got some bigger ammo. Supposedly, this is the serious stuff, a "heavy duty" stripper that clings to vertical surfaces. The result? nada. took the top orange coat off the gray undercoat in a couple of places, but that was it. I don't know if it's because this is an old, lead-based paint compound, or because it's been curing since the Cuban Missle Crisis, but this stuff just won't come off! Any other suggestions? I would prefer not to take wire brush to it. I may just take the areas in need of repair down to bare metal and simply sand the rest of it smooth, then hit the whole thing with primer over the existing paint.
  8. I have to say, they put some seriously industrial-grade paint on this tank. I attempted to strip it with Citristrip, which has worked great for me previously. In the past, it completely lifted the paint off a Honda CL125S tank after only a couple of hours. The black enamel on a Yamaha YZ125C swingarm was a bit tougher; that took two applications about 24 hours apart to completely strip it bare. But this thing? Wow, three applications over about a four day period has only managed to remove the logo and some of the pinstriping. The main coat is not even bubbling where it's been scratched all the way through to the metal.
  9. Here's a view of the never-ending project I am using mine on. Unfortunately, mine has this...
  10. Beautiful restoration, Joebiker!
  11. Okay I guess, if you like that sort of thing... [KIDDING!]
  12. Pretty lousy right now, as far as I can tell. But once I get it all together, if it turns out to be worth anything on the road, I'll pop for a custom job. But the budget allocated for this project is $50 a month. That's max, often less when life demands it.
  13. Very unique fab work!
  14. My current Bultaco Roadster project. A back-burner project that I've been cobbling together over the past few years, out of whatever spare junk I stumble across cheaply. Frame and engine are from various Bultacos. 200cc engine. Front forks and wheels are Suzuki. Swingarm is from a '76 YZ125C. Buell Blast shock with XR80R spring. VTR250 handlebars. LED headlight in Ural bucket. Since that photo was taken, I made up the shock mount to the frame. (There are two attachment points to the lower frame backbone that have not been drilled and sleeved yet in this photo).