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      Moving Site   11/22/2017

      If you want to keep this site up I need your help total cost to move this site to Godaddy will be $300.00 this will also include 2 years hosting then the total a year is less than $100.00 verses $937.00 a year come on guys to keep this site going whats it worth to you Carr has transferred the Domain name to me so it will be our site I can swing $100.00 a year can you swing helping with the transfer cost? if not I will close this site at the end of dec But we need to act by the end of this month 8 days to raise $300.00 Your call but don't come bitching to me cause we are shutting down Paypal  thechopperunderground@cox.net WhiteWolf

mrriggs

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About mrriggs

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    Two Wheel Terror
  • Birthday 11/25/1979

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    http://www.gofastforless.com
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    Vancouver, WA

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  1. I scrounged up a bunch of stuff to built a TIG out of my old AC stick welder. Picked up a torch and some big diodes, SCRs and a choke to turn the AC into a foot pedal controlled DC. Also got some giant MOSFETs to turn the DC into a square wave with adjustable duty cycle and frequency. It's all pretty simple circuits, you just use big-ass components. Unfortunately, I blew my money on those big-ass components and never got around to buying the gas cylinder. That's why I'm still staring at a pile of parts instead of sticking metal together with a stupid simple scratch-start TIG.
  2. I'd just stick the cable in there and tie it down with safety wire.
  3. You can get a carbide tip drill (masonry drill) a whole lot cheaper than a solid carbide drill. They aren't particularly sharp out of the box and do tend to chip so it helps to have a grinder to put a clean edge on it now and again.
  4. I had trouble with new bulbs burning out. Went to the junkyard and got some from an old bike. That was seven years ago and they are still going strong. I suspect that the new bulbs aren't made to handle the vibration of old bikes.
  5. The only thing slowing this project down now is my incompetence. After assembling the center section I discovered that I had miscalculated the width of the center flanges when machining the pin, and the crank was 1mm too narrow. Luckily, CR500 connecting rod thrust washers are 0.5mm thicker than the XS washers and still available from Honda. With one of those on the inside of each connecting rod it should correct the spacing from the rods out. Since there is no longer a Honda dealer within 20 miles of me I had to order the washers on-line and wait a couple weeks for back order. I've had the thrust washers for a couple weeks but haven't continued the crank assembly because I decided to go with one of my original design ideas and "Scotch key" the webs to the center pin. I had to wait for payday so I could order the necessary hardware. Well, today is payday so I went on-line to McMaster Carr and when I clicked on the part a little caption below says, "You ordered 12 each on 07/19/13." SON-OF-A-BITCH! I had what I needed all along, just forgot that I had already ordered it. I'll try to get my head out of my ass this week and get this project going again.
  6. That's the hot rodder's version of CAD (Catastrophe-Aided Design).
  7. I haven't done much crank work since putting a pressure gauge on the press, but the XS cranks I disassembled for this project all came apart at about 4.5 tons. That includes the crank that started to separate in the engine. So I know that a 4.5-ton press fit alone is not adequate. What I don't know is exactly how tight the fit needs to be to prevent separation. If, for the sake of argument, a 6-ton fit is required then the 8-ton LocTite joint will be more than adequate and welding would be unnecessary. If I blow this crank apart then we'll know that the requirement is somewhere above 8 tons and additional retention methods should be used.
  8. I tried melting down a wheel once to cast some parts. It poured nice but was a nightmare to machine. The best word to describe it was "gummy". Used pistons are my favorite. I drove around to some machine shops and offered to buy their used pistons at scrap price and they would just give them to me.
  9. It's coming together now. I started by drilling a small hole in each balance weight to get it back down to a 60% balance factor. I had to make some marks on the center webs that I could use to "phase" the crank. The dividing head was still setup on the mill and one of the reject pins made a perfect mandrel. The parts were put on the mandrel with with the crank pins lined up. A line was scribed on the left web then the dividing head was rotated 45° and the right side was scribed. This motor is going to be a 315° re-phase. I liked the sound of my 277° re-phase but didn't like the buzzy vibes. The stock 360° crank feels nice but sounds bland. I'm hoping that the 315 will give me the best of both. After pressing the center pin into one side of the crank, I used angle blocks to square it up and line up the "phase" marks. I'm using LocTite 620 bearing mount on all of the pins to effectively double the strength of the press fit. That's not just advertising hype either. I did a test on some spare parts. A dry pin took 4.5 tons to remove. The same pin in the same hole, with the LocTite, took 8 tons to remove. With the center section assembled, it was time to true it. I mounted it between centers on the lathe and indicated off of the ground ring on the side. The left side was dead-on. The right side had a 0.005" wobble. I went at it with a 6# lead mallet but it wasn't moving so I stuck it in the press and cranked down on the high side. It reads less than a thousandths now. I'm pretty excited. All of the custom work that I've spent the last two years on is basically done. It's down to just standard crankshaft assembly now.
  10. I overlooked something when I was working out the equation for the balance factor. What I did was plot out the up/down forces and the front/back forces, then picked a balance factor that gave the lowest maximum value of each (64% in the following graph). What I neglected to consider was that the combined forces could exceed that number "diagonally". Plotting it out on a polar chart shows that a 60% balance factor actually has a lower peak value than the 64% balance factor. I revised the balance factor equations to account for that. For a single piston per crank throw; B = ( 0.202 / sqrt( R/S ) ) + .447 For a 45° V-Twin; B = ( 0.105 / sqrt( R/S ) ) + .466 And just for fun I plotted out the difference between a parallel, 45°, and 90° twin. All have the same piston mass and rod/stroke ratio.
  11. Success! All four crank webs are balanced. I really lucked out on that #4 web. It required quite a bit more weight than the others since it didn't have a hole in it to begin with and because the weight was added closer to the center. It needed 91 grams added and the 5/8" X 1" tungsten slug was exactly 91 grams as shipped. I'm not sure how far I'll get on assembling the crank today. I need to clean up this shop before I go any further.
  12. I pulled an all-nighter again and made a lot better progress this week. I decided to not use the crank web that I balanced last week because the oil seal surface was pitted. I have three of the webs drilled and bored. I made another change to the drilling routine. Instead of using the mounted point to grind through the case layer, I used a 5/8" carbide-tip drill. Again, I chased the original holes with a 3/8" carbide-tip drill. Then drilled it out with a 9/16" HSS drill. Over on the mill I bored the holes to 5/8". The #4 crank web has to be done differently than the rest. It has a starter ring gear on the OD so it can't be balanced on the flat plate. I set it up between centers on the lathe and added weight to the pin hole until it would sit level (no weights in the pic). Because of the friction on the centers, this method is far less accurate. I'd say you would be lucky to hit ±10 grams. The flat surface could get you as close as 1 or 2 grams. I came up with about 404 grams which seems to be right in line with all the other webs that I checked. I will not try to balance this web again after drilling. Instead, I weighed the entire piece before drilling and will weigh it again after drilling. The change in balance can be determined by the diffrence in weight times the distance of the hole from center. The #4 web does not alrerady have a hole in the counterweight so one has to be drilled. I measured it out and decided to put the hole 46mm from center. At 50mm it would have been too close to the inside of the ring gear. I'd hate to have the weight blow out of the crank at 7000 rpm! I thought I had a 1/4" solid carbide drill but all I could find was this 6mm solid carbide end mill. It did a good job at making the pilot hole but it will probably not work as an end mill again. After I get my daughter on the bus I'll finish up the machining and start pessing in weights.
  13. Previously, I mentioned that the balance factor for a V-twin is different from an engine with a single cylinder per crank throw. To satisfy my own curiosity, I sat down and figured it out. For a 45° V-twin the following equation can be used to find the balance factor. B = ( 0.19 / sqrt( R/S ) ) + .4365 A 90° V-twin is even simpler. B = 50% The rod/stroke ratio does not affect the balance factor on a 90° V-twin.
  14. The original hole is about 5/16" (8mm). I ran the 3/8" carbide drill through it just to remove the hard layer inside the hole (not pictured above). The drill in the picture above is a 9/16" HSS that I used to open it up after the hard surfaces were removed.
  15. Alright, I found a solution for drilling the holes. First, grind through the case layer with a 3/4" mounted point. Then I drilled the hole with a 3/8" carbide tip drill. After that, the HSS drill goes through it, no problem.