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    • WhiteWolf

      Moving Site   11/22/2017

      If you want to keep this site up I need your help total cost to move this site to Godaddy will be $300.00 this will also include 2 years hosting then the total a year is less than $100.00 verses $937.00 a year come on guys to keep this site going whats it worth to you Carr has transferred the Domain name to me so it will be our site I can swing $100.00 a year can you swing helping with the transfer cost? if not I will close this site at the end of dec But we need to act by the end of this month 8 days to raise $300.00 Your call but don't come bitching to me cause we are shutting down Paypal  thechopperunderground@cox.net WhiteWolf

zhagg

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About zhagg

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    Grease Spot

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  1. I'm working on an '89 Yamaha Radian with factory KYB forks and want to cut the forks down in this manner, but I can't get the tubes out of the sliders. Is there a bolt/nut inside the tubes? I tried shining a light down there, but only saw darkness... There is a bushing/retainer under the fork seal on the sider. Does this part come out? Thanks for any help
  2. I'm signed up... can't seem to find it... if you have the link, can you forward it to me, or post it?
  3. +1, seams like twas just yesterday someone opened this can. where is this "can" so I can read it...? I don't really want to bring it all back up again because I know what it can turn into... I just can't seem to find it It's stupid and dangerous, what's to read? Don't do it, don't use it. Thank you! PERFECT. Thanks for the replies. I don't want to use it myself. I'm trying to save a friend of mine from going down that same path... I also wanted to review it anyway just because its been a while for me. If the thread is any good, can we pin it or something in this section?
  4. +1, seams like twas just yesterday someone opened this can. where is this "can" so I can read it...? I don't really want to bring it all back up again because I know what it can turn into... I just can't seem to find it
  5. Wasn't there a tube vs. pipe thread on here somewhere...? I know a guy that uses black pipe from the hardware store to build his bikes... I vaguely remember reading something about this topic a long time ago. maybe it was before the site moved...?
  6. Here are some pics of the new setup: Shifter end is made from an old primary chain. It has an old power-charge primary igniter (BP-3S) casing from back in my oilfield days in the center. The clutch pedal is made from a length of primary chain welded to a piece of an FZR 1000 subframe. The more I ride it, the more I dig it...
  7. I'm anxious to see what you come up with.
  8. Awesome. thanks for the pic. So, in the end, does it mean that I really don't need a lock for the clutch? I have stalled it a couple times, but that's about all that happens... Sucks at traffic lights though. I guess when I get better with the clutch, it won't be such an issue. I hope...
  9. Well, I'd rather not have to build one. What was the point of having them anyway? I just don't want to run into the situation where I need one and I don't have it. jamesgs4, how long have you been riding a foot clutch bike? I assume yours doesn't have a lock?
  10. Amazing build man. I really like the fab work. I know what you mean about the exhaust... Those four-poppers can be a tricky one to tackle and make unique. I've always wanted to make a tuned/equal-length header that stretched out along the side of the bike like those old race cars from the '30s... Like spaghetti (nicely flowing and fluidly designed spaghetti...) up front, then a long straight shot to the back...
  11. For some dumb reason, I decided to make my bike into a foot clutch/suicide shift idiot-mobile... While I was building it, I read somewhere about a "clutch lock" mechanism to keep the clutch disengaged. How important is this, and if its important, what's the best method of building it?
  12. I was hoping that you would reply. I was also afraid that you would say what you did. I'm glad you said it though. I didn't think I could really pull off an loonynum frame, but I figured if it could be done, then people here could guide me through it. I feel confident that I could make a strong, lightweight steel frame, but I'm not sure if I could make it stronger, stiffer and lighter than the "legendary" deltabox... It's not my intent to out-engineer Yamaha, but I do need to make sure I can bridle the 135 supposed horses that the engine produces. I guess no loonynum for me...
  13. Thanks for all of the replies. As far as the frame goes, I'm only planning on using the neck. I'm planning on using the monoshock swing arm setup as well. If I end up making the frame from alumi, then I will consider using some of the original hard points for the suspension mounts etc. If I go loonynum and they don't incorporate well into the plans, then I will fab up the sus mounts. I'm planning on doing the welding. I have a Syncrowave 200, but I'm no pro by any means. If after discussing the process with you guys, and if in the end I'll be making an alumi frame; I'll be posting trial runs and fit-ups on the post as the build progresses. I've welded loonynum (non structural...) before, but I don't want to make a death trap, so I'll be asking for a bunch of insight from the more experienced folks here. How do I find out the alloy of the stock frame? Will it be stamped somewhere? It looks like some parts of the frame are cast, but there are major welds throughout the frame. I can post pics if it helps. I really want to build an loonynum frame and use the original front end set up. I think that an loonynum frame will make the bike feel like it still has some of the FZR DNA that would otherwise be missing. My intention is to make a "bobber" with the power and performance of the FZR.
  14. I want to use a neck and triple/fork setup (& engine/drivetrain etc) from a '93 FZR 1000, but I want to nix the Deltabox frame and replace it with a tubular "standard" style frame. The neck is loonynum and I'd like to (despite the high cost of alumi) build the frame from loonynum. I assume the wall thickness will have to be stout and of course the welding will be more challenging. Is it possible to do what I'd like to do? What about bending the tube? Is it worth it? I'd really like to use the VIN/title from the FZR and I like the idea of keeping the frame loonynum as a way of retaining that element of the original bike. If it is really not going to work, I'll figure out a new route with steel. Thanks in advance for your help.