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cozee

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About cozee

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  • Birthday 04/23/1959

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    gcozee

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  1. He's happy with it.
  2. http://s561.photobucket.com/user/gcozee/media/13757511_1104736412927512_249149487_n_zpslgj44tuc.mp4.html?o=0
  3. Milwaukee went downhill when it decided to reach more of the masses instead of continuing to focus on the construction industry. I use Dewalt when I absolutely need a cordless, otherwise, nothing beats air!!!
  4. Here is a low light vid. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Short vid of a spray-out I did for a bro's bike we are getting ready to paint. https://youtu.be/Lze2-qOno3M
  6. Manual, not a wrench. Recently went through an intense 4 day electrical troubleshooting class based on this book and taught by the author. He teaches a troubleshooting method that goes against the grain of tradition. Most of the time we have been taught to ohm out everything and to look for what we don't have. He on the other hand teaches to look for voltage/voltage loss and to reduce time spent with diagnosis by noting what you do have in a given circuit. He also developed a tool to assist in looking for voltage losses, the Load Pro Dynamic Leads which after reading a circuits voltage at a given point, you simply press the button and load the circuit. Voltage loss mean your issue is between the point you are checking and the previous check point. Check points are determined by drawing out your circuit in a straight line format starting with power on the left to ground on the right. Terminals, switches, and loads placed appropriately. We spent two days working on circuits we created on the boards he supplied and he would then bug them while we were out of the room. His method works great as does his tool. The tool can be built from scratch with a 25 ohm resistor and a momentary switch, some wiring, and lead ends of choice. Below is the link to the manual. The manual is great investment as far as I am concerned! Especially for this who struggle with wiring. http://esitest.com/182.html
  7. I am always looking for broken "tool truck" tools on the cheap. Most are repaired for free. Really pisses the Snap-On dealer here off because he knows I buy regularly from MAC, and occasionally MATCO, but never from him.
  8. Best case scenario for either it a couple of years tops. After that mother nature will overcome with rust and corrosion prevailing. But if ya just gotta do it, black candy on the frame. Powder coat would be best but paint from a gun will work. Clear it and scuff or flatten to kill the gloss if wanted. As for saving the patina, Wurth Clear Rust Guard. Similar to Por15 but I like it far better. I recommend clearing over it and killing the gloss if ya don't want shiney!
  9. I second the waterborne paints. Createx's Auto Air and or Wicked lines work very well. Make sure the clear you will be using is compatible with the Rust-oleum. Then scuff the whole surface, lay down a base coat of Auto Air white or black sealer and go from there. If you are not familiar with waterborne paints, build them up in multiple, light layers, making sure each layer is dry before adding the next. A cheap hair dryer will work well for speeding up the process but don't over do it. The key to drying waterborne paints isn't so much heat but airflow. If and when spraying near tape lines, try your best to keep layers to a minimum, especially with the base sealers. If to thick, when you remove the tape you more than likely get a line of black or white, depending on the color you based with, where the tape was. You can take the same paints, add some glycerin, and use them for striping. Once you are sure the artwork/graphics are completely dry, I would spray a couple light wet coats of clear with about 10-15 minutes between coats then go over everything thing with the desire number of wet coats. I personally seal artwork with an intercoat clear then minimum 3 coats of a good quality, high solids clear.
  10. Definitely metallic. The blue above is metallic, just can't tell it in the pic. Will see the bike Saturday and get good pics then. My problem with my bike is trying to figure out what I want. Definitely want black metallic. Thinkin 2 tone with a med. grey metallic and a pure platinum pinstripe. I like the selection that Spectra Master offers but then with over 1200 pearl and metallic chips (and another 600 secondary mix colors) it is hard to decide!
  11. I still paint regularly, just large flat panels and single stage paints!!! Almost forgot how much fun shootin bc/cc is!!! The Color is Dupont Spectra Master BM193 mixed as Chroma Base. Not cheap but is sure is pretty, especially in the sunlight.Hopefully get some good pics of the bike this Saturday. Seems my road sofa just might be wearing some fresh paint here later on!!!!! Think metallic black!
  12. Been awhile since I painted any bike skins, or anything other than a bus. Did these at work for a club brother. Gave me the itch to get things set back up here at home and start doing some custom slingin' again. This is nothing fancy. Solid color; blue Spectra Master bc/cc and my favorite PPG 2002 clear. Clear was just finished and still flowing out. Did the inner/outer fairing, tank halves, both fenders and trunk. The helmet is going to get a little custom work. Will post pics if I remember. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics as they and the booth lighting don't do the paint justice. I did notice that the tank makes my ass look fat!!!
  13. Don't assume and allow it to gas out too long or you will end up with improper clear coat burn in and it will peel later on down the road. Don't allow enough gassing time and you will have other issues. Read the mfg's tech sheet for the paint you are using as it defines the parameters for flash time to re-coat and clear coat. My recommendation is that if the paint you are using doesn't have a tech sheet then don't use it. Not sure about Duplicolor enamels but if it is a quality base coat, 15-30 minutes, possibly up to an hour before clear coating is normal. If there is a need to prolong the CC application, if over 24 hours, you would need to scuff the BC, apply a fresh coat, allow it to flash and then clear. Base coats and primers adhere mechanically; they require an abraded surface to properly "stick". Clear coats adhere chemically; they use the solvents they carry and those that are in the BC to blend or melt together. One can shoot clear over an abraded surface and get it to stick but you eventually dislike the outcome!