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    • WhiteWolf

      Moving Site   11/22/2017

      If you want to keep this site up I need your help total cost to move this site to Godaddy will be $300.00 this will also include 2 years hosting then the total a year is less than $100.00 verses $937.00 a year come on guys to keep this site going whats it worth to you Carr has transferred the Domain name to me so it will be our site I can swing $100.00 a year can you swing helping with the transfer cost? if not I will close this site at the end of dec But we need to act by the end of this month 8 days to raise $300.00 Your call but don't come bitching to me cause we are shutting down Paypal  thechopperunderground@cox.net WhiteWolf

Timberwolf

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About Timberwolf

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    Garage gremlin

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  • Location
    Battle Creek, MI
  1. well, usually points or magnetic trigger is what actually breaks the current to the coil, not the key switch. This is a breakerless ignitions that uses a hall effect switch that's magnet triggered. So it acts like the switch is always pulled closed, thus the current constantly feeding the coil until the key is turned off. The problem it has is the starter has a heck of a time cranking the motor unless the rear plug is pulled. I'm guessing it's trying to pre-ignite the mix in the cylinder. Also, when shutting off the bike by key switch it will sometimes fire residual fuel in the cylinder and backfire either through the carb or exhaust
  2. Need some help troubleshooting... trying to restore my dad's old bike. One of the fist problems is this spark issue. When shutting off the key, I get an errant spark to the rear cylinder. See video here: http://youtu.be/P3XLRVQNQAg Bike has a pair of dyna coils. I see nothing dead shorted. Ignition switch is new, and the only connections are B+, Ign, and Lights. The spark occurs when switch from the first "on" position to "off." Thoughts on where to start looking?
  3. decided to get rid of the flip top from this old honda tank. Looked like hell inside, but I had already soaked it in lacquer thinner for a few days to get rid of the varnish, and then Evaporust to get rid of any of that nonsense... So it was just a matter of a little cleanup with some brake clean and a long handled nylon brush. Emptied and dried, ready for welding Hour or so later... still has some metal finishing to be done, couple suspect spots I will touch up in case of pin holes, then I will pressure check it before it goes for paint. Final cap will be just like this, but black. I forgot to bring it out to the garage with me, so this one is hijacked from my dad's bike temporarily.
  4. Progress pic from the leather guy. Memory foam applied. Leather tooling has begun.
  5. before the final trim, but I think it came out decently. Fit like a glove. After I took these pics I mixed up another 2 ounces of reson and touched all the edges again, then did a final sand. decided to prime and paint the bottom so the steel wouldn't rust. Primer looked fine, but for some reason didn't want to play well with the primer. Oh well. Once it cured I bead blasted the paint back off and sent the pan out for leather work.
  6. Decided to try a fiberglass seat pan. First time ever using the stuff, so we'll see how it goes.
  7. Decided to get rid if the flip top from this old honda tank. Looked like hell inside, but I had already soaked it in lacquer thinner for a few days to get rid of the varnish, and then Evaporust to get rid of any of that nonsense... So it was just a matter of a little cleanup with some brake clean and a long handled nylon brush. Emptied and dried, ready for welding Hour or so later... still has some metal finishing to be done, couple suspect spots I will touch up in case of pin holes, then I will pressure check it before it goes for paint. Final cap will be just like this, but black. I forgot to bring it out to the garage with me, so this one is hijacked from my dad's bike temporarily.
  8. Got to hear the new exhaust today
  9. Built a shop cart. Laser cut the top with holes that match the die springs from the honda motor start stand up above. That way I can get it up off the floor to work on it. Also put a piece of DOM in the middle that matches up with the harley engine stand. Allows me to spin it about the vertical and horizontal axis. I originally designed the stand to just mount to a bench top (as you saw above), but I liked this idea better. Tagged on some holsters for the mig gun just in case and a hook for the helmet/shield/whatever. How it works: Ended up mounting a vice to the cart too, which came in handy when I built the exhaust (check out my thread in the Builder's Log subforum to see how that turned out ).
  10. hmm, thought I posted pics of the pipes in primer. guess not. finished welding up the collars, everything's ground and sanded, in high temp primer. Drew up a mounting tab for the exhaust. Cut it out (along with a few backups) on the laser today at work.
  11. drew up a sprocket yesterday. Burned it out on the laser today and had the mazak guy finish it up on the lathe. Unfortunately he picked today to wake n bake, so surface finish didn't come out as nice as I'd hoped.
  12. Interesting...we've taken similar paths... as far as frame mods and seat pan, etc.
  13. Front and rear view
  14. I was originally going to go with the shotgun style... but I think I like the long look better. Plus I think it will less obnoxious. Started another mockup of the fender strut. I think it's headed the right direction, but it's certainly not the final design. This is just 1/4" rod (easy to bend yet still weldable and rigid.
  15. A while back I designed some fixtures to hold these tubes so the ends could be chamfered, fittings pressed on, and then the other end cut to length. These were samples they sent us. They've been sitting around for months, so I asked if I could have them. DOM mandrel bent 1.5" OD. Perfect to cut up into motorcycle exhaust. Score! started mocking up the exhaust tonight. Still needs a lot of tweaking but I wanted to see if I could make it work. Could have used some tighter mandrel bends, but I think it will be ok.