justin

lowering xs650 forks

30 posts in this topic

seems like this is a popular mod but not a bunch of post on this. so heres my idiots guide to lowering the forks...

to dissasemble the tubes from the slider you need an 8mm allen wrench for the bottom of the slider and a 17mm allen to hold the damper rod in place. i did not have one of these. but i did have an extra fender bolt from the rear fender. like this

17MM2.jpg

i used red lock-tite (permanant) to secure the acorn nut to the bolt. this way the 2 didnt come apart befor the damper rod did. and used a 17mm socket on a series of extensions to place the acorn into the damper rod.

its the top of the damper rod or the first part of it that you see when looking down the fork tube.

tommorow i will find a 2'' spacer and get you some more pics of parts and assembly.

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ok class now that you have fashioned a suitable tool for the damper rod we proceed to dissasembly.

first step is to take all the preload out of the fork tube cap. this will lessen the chance of your cap shooting across

the room and putting out an eye. this is done with a large regular screwdriver. you need to push down hard and turn till

it comes to 1/4'' below the surface of the cap.

forkparts5.jpg

forkparts6.jpg

lift bike so the wheel is off the ground. you may get the first cap off but the second will fly across the room and squirt oil

all over you.

now you can remove cap. it will pop up a little bit when it unthreads fully. do not loose the solid washer underneath

the cap. do this with one or both trees still fastened so the tube stays put.

pull out fork springs now and set aside.

loosen pinch bolts on trees and remove forks and sliders.

drain oil from tubes.

now place slider in vice. i used the mounts for the caliper and some blocks of wood as to not scar the aluminium.

forkparts1.jpg

place socket and 17mm allen tool into fork tube. and 8mm allen wrench in bottom of slider.

mine worked out to the socket wrench hit the bench so i didnt even have to hold it.

i also used a small cheater bar (3/8'' socket extension) on the 8mm allen wrench.

this bolt is locktited from the factory and will give resistance all the out. i would advice to using blue loctite during reassembly.

once 8mm bolt is removed you can slider tube out of slider.

damper will slide out of the top of the tube and and the small damper spacer will come out of the bottom of the tube.

forkparts4.jpg

clean all parts as the will be filled with sludge from ancient oil. that cant be good.

forkparts2.jpg

i was previously riding on an upside down top triple clamp. it lowers the front 2'' but i dont care for the way it looks.

so i will make a spacer at 2'' and fit it under the little spring on damper rod and cut fork springs by 1 1/2'' and reasseble.

will make spacer tommorow and add more pics.

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Very good so far please keep it coming. And to think 2 days ago you didn't know what a Kuhnewton soleniod bracket was. :whistling:

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good morning class.

by now you should have your forks dissasembled and ready to make your desired lowering spacer.

i used a tube from an old dumb bell, its 1'' od and 20mm id. (never throw metal away) i also played with a piece of 3/4''

black iron. (gas line) but it would have needed a little time on a lath or a good grinding as it was a bit to large on the od side.

here is lowering space installed on damper rod. under small spring.

shockguts.jpg

here is a comparison to stock set up.

shockguts1.jpg

here is what needs to be cut of the large spring. the spring in these are progressive. which means it has a tighter coil

pattern at the top compared to the bottom. i will be cutting the spring from the botom so i can keep the progressive

action of the spring.

shockguts2.jpg

i am trying to figure out if the minton mod would be benificial to a lowered set up.

this is drilling the holes in the damper rod to a larger size. if anybody can chime in and say this is a good mod

to lowered set up's please do.

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hello class, im sister mary elephant.

by now you should have your spacer made to desired lenght and be ready to cut your large spring.

i chose 1/4'' shorter than lenght of lowering spacer. which equals 2''. spacer was 2 1/4''. these makes for 1/4'' of

extra preload.

i bought a 10'' metal cut of blade for my chopsaw. it was $5 at lowes, a small price to pay for a accurate cut on a spring.

i set up a stop block on my saw to 2'' including the width of the blade. like this.

choppingsprings1.jpg

now my springs fit 3/4'' lower than the tube, which is 1/4'' higher than stock.like this.

choppingsprings2.jpg.

now is a good time to shave your sliders of any unused tabs before your final assembly. do not forget to add blue loc-tite

to the 8mm allen bolt during final assembly. it may seem that the bolt cannot come out due to the axel, but the damper rod may unscrew from the inside resulting in a tragic wheelie.

this concludes xs650 front end lowering class....

justin

Edited by justin

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we want AFTER pics

gonna be awhile as bike is dissasembled and waiting for a warmer day so i can powerwash the frame and get some paint on it....

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thanks man, good post, there was someone on the garage couple yrs ago that did the milton modd but I dont remember who it was , arron might remember if you ask.

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Didn't catch this post, am always looking in your build thread. This is nice work justin, and put together well.

Edited by metalho

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thanks, it was fun to do and hope it helps sombody.

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I think it will help lots of folks. Thanks for doing the write-up and posting it here.

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My question is, when is Sargent Stedanko coming to speak to the class?

Classs, CLASSSSS, CLASSSSSSSSSSSS?!?!?!

SHUT UP!!!!!!!!!!

thank you.

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Can this same process be applied to earlier models such as a '75?

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Can this same process be applied to earlier models such as a '75?

the only major difference is the tool used to get sliders off. on the earlier models its a socket where 2 sides are ground down. there was just a pic posted on another thread about it but i cant seem to find it.

heres a super awsome drawing to show what it looks like.

untitled.jpg

my dirtbike forks were like this. i just wrapped some electric tape over a piece of rebar and shoved it on the flat side of the nut to hold it still. worked like a charm.

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I feel like the helpless child on this board but here's another question- my damper rods don't have the small spring on them? I checked my hanes manual and it's doesn't show one either?

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what year is it?

ima guess that youd install the spacer in the same manner. just doesnt have a small spring?

just do it, try it, and post your findings and pics back here...

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I did this modification but for some reason I have zero rebound on the forks. It's like there isn't a spring in them, but my reassembly was

exactly as shown, that I am certain of.

Anyone got any thoughts as to why this would be the case? The forks just bottom and stay put... ?!?!?

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how much did you lower it?

did you put oil in it yet?

how much oil?

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2 1/4 spacer between the small spring and the damper end that you tighten down through the top of the fork tubes with extensions.

took an inch and 1/2 out of the progressive springs

put oil as per factory spec back into the legs

i drained oil last night, no change.

there is absolutely no rebound at all... yet, I can't see how there is an error in assembly... the damper rods are definately bolted

through the fork legs... because you can pull the forks "out" to full stop... but when you compress them... there is no rebound at all.

And yep for sure the springs are definately in them... I had a time getting the caps on, I remember how fun that was.

The fork tubes are brand new, as are the forks seals.

Edited by bandito

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Problem solved... I knew I had it put together correctly, the issue was that I didn't have enough preload on the springs for them to have enough

force to rebound the front end. It's amazing what 1.5 inches of preload on the spring does.... LOL.

And I thought I had some other weird problem. At least that is sorted...

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the forks from my Honda are damn near the same set-up, except the don't have the preload adjuster on the caps and have small springs that come out first. I was thinking of putting the small springs down where you placed the spacer; essentially a 2" drop without cutting anything. I dont uunderstand why they are on top, but I checked a couple of schematics and thats where they were from the factory. what do you think, will that work or am I missing something?

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