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skr00zloose

DNA springer onto an XS650 neck: a how-to

37 posts in this topic

sorry for the lack of pics, if anyone has done this and took pics along the way, please feel free to add them!

XS650/DNA springer front end swap:

parts list:

XS650 neck

DNA springer (but honestly, this should work with any 1" stem harley front end, with minor changes)

Tapered bearing conversion kit for XS650 (All Balls, Mike's XS, and E-bay have them)

harley neck bearings (or 1" trailer axle bearings)

tools needed:

basic hand tools

angle grinder

lathe (not REALLY needed, but can be helpful)

I'll leave the removal of your stock front end to your Clymer's or what have you, and go from there.

1. Once the complete XS650 front end has been removed, including the inner bearing races (a drift and a heavy hammer will pop the old races out easily), press the tapered roller bearing kit races into the XS650 neck. I use a cheap harbor frieght race installer kit, but there are several other ways to do this without special tools. A large piece of all-thread thru the neck with a thick washer and nut on either end can be used, just make sure the washer only contacts the outer edge of the race to avoid any damage to the surface the bearing actually rides on.

2. You will notice that the lower race goes pretty far into the neck. There is alot of "overhang" of the neck past the race itself. You will have to cut this back. Without doing this, with the springer installed, the bottom of the neck will hit the top of the lower triple. I usually cut the neck back with an angle grinder with a flap wheel on it until it's roughly 1/8" past the bottom edge of the lower bearing race.

3. Install 1 harley (or trailer axle) bearing on the stem of the springer. Little tip, if you heat the bearing in a stove a little bit, it will go on

a bit easier, just wear gloves, for obvious reasons. You can use a piece of pipe (or an old fork tube) to seat the bearing against the seal/lower triple completely. Just make sure that the pipe you use ONLY contacts the inner race of the bearing to avoid damage. You can tap it down the stem with the pipe and a hammer until fully seated.

4. The "jam nut" UNDER the top clamp must be shortened by about 10mm (3/8" for you non-metric guys) I don't recall the EXACT measurement, so anyone that has done this swap, and has that info, please add that in. This is where a lathe would be "better" but not really needed. I cut mine down with an angle grinder and a flap wheel, and I rode that bike for years, every day, with no problems. A lathe would just guarantee it being 100% square.

5. grease both bearings, and races.

6. install springer in the XS neck (heavy mo-fo's ain't they?), put upper harley (or trailer axle) bearing over the stem and into the upper race, then the upper seal/dust cap, and install modded jam nut. Haley has what they call a "fall away" spec for their front ends to measure bearing torque. Again, I don't recall that exact measurement at the moment, so if anyone can add that, I will be sure to edit this. Basically, you don't want the front end bearings so tight that they bind, but you don't want it so loose that there's play in the bearings/races.

7. Install top clamp over stem and springer. Install stem nut and torque to spec (again, spec needed). Tighten top tree clamp bolts.

Bing, Bang, Boom... now you're ready of your choice of bars, risers, wheels, brakes, etc. (just remember that DNA springers use a different riser spacing than a typical harley or aftermarket front end, for those looking to run a 1 pc bar/riser or a 1pc riser)

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Thanks a ton for all the help so far! When I get mine put on and working like it should I will post those pictures. Again thanks!

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Thanks a ton for all the help so far! When I get mine put on and working like it should I will post those pictures. Again thanks!

sweet, I know it would be ALOT more helpfull with pics, I just don't have any. The last time I did the swap was probably 4 years ago or so.

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Thanks for posting this. This is the type of knowledge we need to preserve.

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thanks for pinning this. I may be helping a friend get a springer on his XS in the near future, and he happens to be a damn good photographer, so if that happens, I'll edit this and include a bunch of pics.

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Just completed my springer install! Worked just like it should. I lucked into a 70's style springer at the Casa Grande swap meet in late October for $40. But then I had to buy a Kawi dirt bike 21" front wheel for the drum brake setup, a 21" tire, heim joints, 10mm all thread, 1" clamp for the brake stay, new tube and rim strip, and have a new stem and spacers machined. It is about 8" over length, so I will be taking it apart and cutting several inches off the legs. But dayummm it looks cool!

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Even with other tools used, the process was simple and it turned out great (thanks to skr00zloose). The only change I made was cutting 14mm off the retaining nut instead of 10mm to make space for a washer between the lower bearing and the triple tree and between the top bearing and the retaining nut. I bought the xs bearing races from mikesxs and bought the 1" trailer bearings from Tractor Supply. The 2nd & 3rd picture shows how the new tapered xs races look before modifying the stem

Also I converted a stock 1971 front wheel with drum break to accept a 3/4" axle. If anyone is interested in doing that I have pictures, part numbers( of the 3/4" bearings) and pointers.

post-9910-1292717717_thumb.jpg

post-9910-1292717731_thumb.jpg

post-9910-1292717756_thumb.jpg

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I used a hack saw and a straight file instead of an angle grinder (because that is all I had) to remover the excess metal from the bottom of the stem

post-9910-1292718029_thumb.jpg

post-9910-1292718056_thumb.jpg

post-9910-1292718367_thumb.jpg

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I am really happy with the way it turned out! Thanks skr00zloose for all the advice!

post-9910-1292718651_thumb.jpg

post-9910-1292718660_thumb.jpg

post-9910-1292718673_thumb.jpg

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Not sure if this is the best place but what lentgh is correct for a "stock" XS650?

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If memory serves, it's 2 under.

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Even with other tools used, the process was simple and it turned out great (thanks to skr00zloose). The only change I made was cutting 14mm off the retaining nut instead of 10mm to make space for a washer between the lower bearing and the triple tree and between the top bearing and the retaining nut. I bought the xs bearing races from mikesxs and bought the 1" trailer bearings from Tractor Supply. The 2nd & 3rd picture shows how the new tapered xs races look before modifying the stem

Also I converted a stock 1971 front wheel with drum break to accept a 3/4" axle. If anyone is interested in doing that I have pictures, part numbers( of the 3/4" bearings) and pointers.

That's good you were able to just get the races from MikesXS. I was wondering if you have the part number(s) of the races?

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Nice to see that a certain un-named company out there has taken it upon themselves to supply a springer "kit" using the mods that me and (forgive me if I'm wrong, it's been many a year since the first swap I/we did) Calicruiser came up with. (scarcasm doesn't show up well in type!)

Dear "said company"...can we get a cut of the profits? :)

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Great guys. defo appreciate this threat...

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Sweet info man, this is EXACTLY why I came to TCU, tried to get feedback on this same subject in a few other unnamed forums and got nothing. Thanx Skr00z!

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Even with other tools used, the process was simple and it turned out great (thanks to skr00zloose). The only change I made was cutting 14mm off the retaining nut instead of 10mm to make space for a washer between the lower bearing and the triple tree and between the top bearing and the retaining nut. I bought the xs bearing races from mikesxs and bought the 1" trailer bearings from Tractor Supply. The 2nd & 3rd picture shows how the new tapered xs races look before modifying the stem

Also I converted a stock 1971 front wheel with drum break to accept a 3/4" axle. If anyone is interested in doing that I have pictures, part numbers( of the 3/4" bearings) and pointers.

That's good you were able to just get the races from MikesXS. I was wondering if you have the part number(s) of the races?

it's part# 28-2009 $48.00/kit Steering Head Tapered Roller Bearing Kit - Fits: All 650's 70-84

Edited by skallywagsol

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Even with other tools used, the process was simple and it turned out great (thanks to skr00zloose). The only change I made was cutting 14mm off the retaining nut instead of 10mm to make space for a washer between the lower bearing and the triple tree and between the top bearing and the retaining nut. I bought the xs bearing races from mikesxs and bought the 1" trailer bearings from Tractor Supply. The 2nd & 3rd picture shows how the new tapered xs races look before modifying the stem

Also I converted a stock 1971 front wheel with drum break to accept a 3/4" axle. If anyone is interested in doing that I have pictures, part numbers( of the 3/4" bearings) and pointers.

That's good you were able to just get the races from MikesXS. I was wondering if you have the part number(s) of the races?

it's part# 28-2009 $48.00/kit Steering Head Tapered Roller Bearing Kit - Fits: All 650's 70-84

Good info. I was trying to find the numbers of the races only. It looks like I need to buy the bearing kit to find out and use the 1" trailer bearings. I have an old Triumph extended frontend with raked trees and 1" stem I'm trying to install on an xs650.

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Came across this else where on the interweb and thought it could be usefull here. The front end I am building to put on my xs650 runs a 3/4 axle but the harley 19" spool wheel im going to use has 5/8" bearings so i been looking for the bearings to do the conversion.

Just as a disclaimer, I have yet to do this conversion but will be and will keep this updated with any additional info that comes up.

The site with the bearings is https://www.staton-inc.com/home.shtml

The part number for the right size bearing is 6203-2RS-12. Its a 1.575" (40mm) OD and a .750 ID. They sell them for $3.58 each. Theyll get you on shipping so I would suggest buying 2 pairs while your at it.

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I just got my dna springer for my xs650. It says on there when using the billet tabs that they are not for fender adjustment and the fender needs to be ran atleast 1 1/2" above the tire. I had read somewhere where someone mounted the fender wrong and bent the springer is there any truth to this or any reasoning for this that anybody would know of on here? Any info would be appreciated.

2s8k5cn.jpg

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If the springer can be bent a fender I wouldn't run it.

I can't see the fender bending a springer

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it was just something I read I don't know how tru it is. Why do you think they say the fender has to be mounted 1 1/2'' from the tire? theres a warning tag on there

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I have a tc bros hardtail and am wanting to run a 21" front rim with a mh90 21 tire how much higher will it sit up front like that then if I were to run a 19" front?

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Measure and compare

A tire will Expand quite a lot while in motoin a spoked wheel will flex a lot too

I have seen highspeed footage of what happens to a tire and wheel under load while rolling they move a lot

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