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VitalesChopShop

A hodgepodge of stuff

50 posts in this topic

Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image threw it together and slapped some paint on it

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48 minutes ago, hardrock785 said:

update!

From 4 days ago? Are you a service advisor somewhere? But actually yeah here's where I'm at with it now. Got my brake lights sorted out. I didn't want anything big to break up the line of the bike so I took 2 reflectors apart, capped the end of the frame with them and wired in 2 lights in the frame. This is just a test proof of concept. I don't have brake switches yet and I still need to put in a new oil filter and fresh oil. I got new plugs and have the coils rigged but not hooked up yet. I fixed the big ass dent in the gas tank and relocated the petcock. I just need a new petcock and a cap for the old spot.  Still a list of things to finish before I can even think about riding it

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95% wired. Need to figure out what to do for a foot brake so I can run wiring for the brake light switches. I wasn't paying attention and wired the voltage regulator directly to the battery. Killed the battery before I realized what was happening. It was a junk battery I was only using for mock up. Engine is sealed up but needs oil. I almost blew up the gas tank so I need to check it for any leaks before I run gas through it 

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Anyone got any ideas how to fix this? No I don't have the broken off piece. I jb welded a small piece of metal on to the gap and am letting it setup but I'm not very hopeful. The cable falls right out when I roll the throttle 

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Compression is shit. Either bad valves, rings or timing. I don't have a leak down tester so I'll have to do it the old fashioned way.

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Instead of sticking a tiny piece in there, make a stepped piece that fills it and extends down the side for way more contact, or let the small piece set up and add a reinforcing piece onto the side. Properly set JB weld is pretty tough stuff.

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On 8/25/2016 at 4:38 PM, VitalesChopShop said:

Anyone got any ideas how to fix this? No I don't have the broken off piece. I jb welded a small piece of metal on to the gap and am letting it setup but I'm not very hopeful. The cable falls right out when I roll the throttle 

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Is there room beside it to bolt a thin piece to the side ? If so trace the broken piece on the side of a piece of 1/4" thick or so and grind every where except where you traced down to 1/8" or so nd screw it to the side with a few burn screws.

Dusty

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10 hours ago, VitalesChopShop said:

Compression is shit. Either bad valves, rings or timing. I don't have a leak down tester so I'll have to do it the old fashioned way.

Before I could afford more, I knocked the center out of a sparkplug and brazed an air chuck on. Then would get it on top dead center and plug the air hose onto the chuck. Then just listen to where the air goes. If it comes out the breather it's rings, if it comes out intake or exhaust a valve and if it comes out intake and exhaust its valve timing and maybe a bunch of bent valves.

Dusty

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On 8/25/2016 at 3:38 PM, VitalesChopShop said:

Anyone got any ideas how to fix this? No I don't have the broken off piece. I jb welded a small piece of metal on to the gap and am letting it setup but I'm not very hopeful. The cable falls right out when I roll the throttle 

image.jpeg

 

I'd just stick the cable in there and tie it down with safety wire.

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I ended up jb welding a piece of metal to fill the spot. Worked fine but now the engine has some issues so I gotta work on that

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pulled out the valves, used some scotch bride and tranny fluid to clean the valve seats since they leaked on previous inspection. Then cleaned up the valve face and lip and the combustion chambers. #3 is the worst and has some pitting in it. I cleaned up what I could without removing material from the chamber. Then I checked the valve lap, shoved a valve in and filled it up with water. No leaks so I think the lack of compression was the amount of crud on the valve seats and valves. I'm going to check the rings and cylinders while its apart but if I to do anymore to this engine I might just slide it to the side and get a 750. This is a lot of work for a $40 engine. 

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When checking valve seating use gasoline or lacquer thinner. the weight of the valve without a spring should completely seal. Water is way too thick with an incredible amount of surface tension.

Dusty

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That's funny because in school when they were teaching machine shop they specifically had us use water. I used water before and it failed so I know I've made an improvement. 

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You don't really think the safety police would let them teach to use combustible or even explosive liquids, even though they are the old standard. I went to tech school in 1966 and we used gasoline, but the instructor said if anybody in a suit asked we were using solvent. He also said that if anyone in a suit came in we were to light all the cutting torches and not turn on the oxygen or bang on something with a hammer or if all the torches were taken or start a engine. I learned a lot from him.

Dusty

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I'm more concerned about the pitting on the combustion chamber of #3. I still need to clean out the runners because there is buildup and god knows what else, sitting in there. I'll get some solvent as part of the cleaning and check it then

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Why not ditch that thing and find an oversized dirt bike motor. Something simple that'll rip!

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A different power plant has crossed my mind, if I do I'll want a v motor to keep the profile tight 

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Alright it's been a minute since I worked on this. I got a job and then I quit it and we moved so I wasn't able to do anything to this project except move it from the old house to the new. I got the head taken care of and have it slapped back together. I spent today trying to put new bearings and races into the neck. Has anyone replaced the bearing races in a 71 CB frame? The top race fits in super sloppy and the bottom doesn't fit at all. I put the races in the freezer and heated the neck with a torch but it still doesn't fit. The front end didn't come from the same place as the frame. The front end is a 74 and the frame is a 71 but everything I can find says it'll work but it's not.


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1247c98d5aee7537b539a4e78b187540.jpg1b50269565aa255252912486e79cecba.jpg
Best part of being unemployed is that I can work on this whenever I want!


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I have a hell of a time to get valves to seat when there pitted,hit them with a little lapping compound.like dave said use something thinner than water.

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I filled the ports with mineral spirits from the parts washer where I worked. Held for 6 hours. I haven't tried to start the engine yet because there's so much more to do


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48468d87be9675f6683dc08b4b642c45.jpg2353b271b048c1b61a6981640a672d97.jpg
Changed the seat pan to something I made that fits the frame. The picture of the old seat shows the mismatch from where I cut the frame to cove the seat. This looks much better and once I upholster it it'll be comfy


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